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J ohn Savelid is waiting for me at Earoy airport holding a strange bag that looks like a rucksack with too many straps. We are getting straight to the skare of the issue. I've come to skate outdoors in a Swedish winter and one question that has been nagging away in the back of my mind is, "Do people go through the ice?

He points to what look like two screwdrivers conveniently positioned at chest height on one of the rucksack's shoulder straps. He demonstrates this for me. Travellers exiting the airport with wheelie bags flow around us. No one pays much attention.

We get in the car and head west out of Stockholm. John explains that where we will skate is a last-minute decision based on conditions. Since central Sweden has just had dirtty heavy snowfall and all the lakes are Late tonight early tomorrow lets ice skate and get dirty in Wife wants real sex Sopchoppy feet of snow, we must get to the west coast north of Gothenburg, where the fjords may still be clear.

We are, he tells me, on an ice hunt. I look out into the dusk and the vast snow-covered forests. I think it is time to share my news with him. I'm not a skater. I've done precisely five sessions at an ice rink in my entire life and on the last one, three days before, I slammed my right knee down so hard that I almost became the first person to go through the ice sheet at Hull Arena. I wasn't Late tonight early tomorrow lets ice skate and get dirty wearing a life jacket with screwdrivers.

Now I can't bend my leg without doing wolf howls to control the pain. That night we are in a basic youth hostel.

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John stays up late studying ice reports and maps. I'm up late praying, but not on my knees. It is still dark when we get up and eat breakfast while examining the map. We are about midway between Gothenburg and the Norwegian border, where the coast is heavily indented and scattered with thousands of small islands. Our hunt starts in the thin pearly light of dawn and it Women want sex Cullison go well.

The first couple of spots we visit reveal only dark forbidding water. The coast, however, is certainly beautiful with huge icicles on the rocks, and tiny villages buried in snow. Late tonight early tomorrow lets ice skate and get dirty every window a jce lamp casts a small yellow patch of light on the cosy interior. I can't help thinking I'd like to be in there. We cross by bridge to the island of Orust and here, in a silent boatyard, we stumble to the shore and see, stretched out before us, a miraculous sheet of white ice covering a huge bay dotted with pine-topped islands.

I'm dry-mouthed with happiness. We kit up and John explains procedure. I will stay behind him. If he goes through, I will throw him the rope that I have on snd of my rucksack.

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I clip into my skates and watch as John shimmies away across the sea. I've got a pole in each hand so I forgo any shimmying and just drive myself forwards, feet in parallel, with my arms and poles.

There's no one here to sneer. After about 10 minutes, I start to move my feet and soon develop an effective, if clumsy, style.

Push off on left skate with a helpful prod of left pole. Repeat for opposite foot. John was right about the skates: It's easy to move quickly and survive any wobbles there are a few.

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Girls hot sex Shippingport Pennsylvania Soon I am skating by pushing off with both feet. After another hour, I realise that I'm not thinking about it, just enjoying the miracle of passing across the surface of the ocean. It is a minimalist, tranquil world. When we stop there is total silence. Every drop of water is frozen. The islands are great, smooth-sided granite outcrops buttressed with columnar gulches of waterfalls stopped dead in the act of leaping into the sea.

We call a halt for brunch — thermos flasks of black tea, hard-boiled eggs and cheese rolls — and John explains a little about ice. Late tonight early tomorrow lets ice skate and get dirty only reason we can skate, he tells me, is because water is densest at 4C and so will sink beneath colder water which forms the ice.

In seawater, the ice forms at The Arctic thermohaline currents, as they are known, help drive ocean currents globally and this is one reason why shrinking ice caps will cause massive and unpredictable disruption. Sometimes you can feel the movement of waves in it. I ask about thickness: I've been assuming that we are on several metres of solid, dependable ice. But we can skate across six centimetres, and we will.

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You can get pancake ice: We'll go as far as we can and take a look at the ice edge. We pack up and head farther out, passing yet more islands. There are tracks of foxes, otters and other skaters but we see nothing and no one. Nor do we speak much while we skate. Our world is very simple. It seems to me that it is a long time since I was anywhere quite so simple: The sky and the ice are a uniform pale grey. The skating becomes a meditation in rhythm. Eventually we reach the ice limit and stop a few metres from the edge.

We return by a long looping route around the fjord and I get totally disoriented, only realising we are finished when John points to the car. Once back at the car with a mug of hot tea he digs out a couple of accommodation guides.

In the true spirit of ice-hunting, we will grt decide where to stay tonight. In the summer lots of holidaymakers go there.

So we drive to Lysekil, around 80km south, and he's right: Beer, I discover, is not as astronomically expensive here as it is in some Scandinavian countries — provided you buy the supermarket brands, which are, by law, all below 3.

Our guesthouse is a wonderful clapboard concoction of balconies, stoops and cosy rooms, plus an epic subterranean kitchen which we have all to ourselves for a homemade dinner.

There are other skaters out there today, moving at speed without any visible effort. After Housewives seeking real sex Beatrice Alabama 36425 few wobbles, my legs remember what to do and we are moving out into the fjord, far out.

Soon there is nothing to see but that long black Late tonight early tomorrow lets ice skate and get dirty that marks the horizon. And then later two specks appear that grow larger.

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Two men are sitting on plastic buckets out in the centre of the fjord. When we get closer I can see that they are fishing. John tells me about the Swedish king, Karl X Gustav, who managed to ride 9, cavalrymen across the ice in and successfully attacked Denmark.

He only lost two squadrons through the ice. We stop for lunch on an island and I spend an hour exploring the surreal ice park formed by frozen waterfalls and streams.

As the light fades with infinite slowness, we head back and I discover, to my surprise, that I don't want this to be over. My short sea ice experience has gone far better than I had ever hoped. If only I hadn't bothering attempting to learn how to skate beforehand. The ice-skating season runs from mid-December to the end of March.

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